Showing posts with label HARDWARE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label HARDWARE. Show all posts

Thursday 2 May 2013

How to Enable a Guest Access Point on Your Wireless Network

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Sharing your Wi-Fi with guests is just the polite thing to do, but that doesn’t mean you want to give them wide open access to your entire LAN. Read on as we show you how to set up your router for dual SSIDs and create a separate (and secured) access point for your guests.

Why Do I Want to Do This?

There are several very practical reasons for wanting to set up your home network to have dual access points (AP).
The reason with the most practical application for the most number of people is simply isolating your home network so that guests can’t access things you wish to remain private. The default configuration for almost every home Wi-Fi access point/router is to use a single wireless access point and anyone authorized to access that AP is given access to the network as if they were wired right into the AP via Ethernet.
In other words if you give your friend, neighbor, house guest, or whoever the password to your Wi-Fi AP, you’ve also given them access to your network printer, any open shares on your network, unsecured devices on your network, and so on. You may have just wanted to let them check their email or play a game online, but you’ve given them the freedom to roam anywhere they want on your internal network.
Now while the majority of us certainly don’t have malicious hackers for friends, that doesn’t mean it isn’t prudent to set up our networks so that guests stay where they belong (on the free internet access side of the fence) and can’t go where they don’t (on the home server/personal shares side of the fence).
Another practical reason for running an AP with two SSIDs is the ability to not only restrict where the guest AP can go, but when. If you’re a parent, for example, that wants to restrict how late your child can stay up dinking around on the computer you could put their computer, tablet, etc. on the secondary AP and set restrictions on internet access for the entire sub-SSID after, say, 9PM.

What Do I Need?

Our tutorial today is focused on using a DD-WRT compatible router to achieve dual SSIDs. As such you will need the following things:
  • 1 DD-WRT compatible router with an appropriate hardware revision (we’ll show you how to check)
  • 1 installed copy of DD-WRT on said router
This is not the only way to set up dual SSIDs for your home network. We’re going to run our SSIDs off the ubiquitous Linksys WRT54G series Wireless Router. If you don’t want to go through the hassle of flashing custom firmware on your old router and doing the extra configuration steps, you could instead:
  • Purchase a newer router that supports dual SSIDs right out of the box such as theASUS RT-N66U.
  • Purchase a second wireless router and configure it as a stand alone access point.
Unless you already own a router that supports dual SSIDs (in which case you can skip this tutorial and just read the manual for your device) both of these options are less than ideal in that you have to spend extra money and, in the case of the second option, do a bunch of extra configuring including setting up the secondary AP to not interfere with and/or overlap with your primary AP.
In light of all that, we were more than happy to use hardware we already had (the Linksys WRT54G series Wireless Router) and skip the outlay of cash and extra Wi-Fi network tweaking.

How Do I Know My Router Is Compatible?

There are two critical compatibility elements you need to check in order to have success with this tutorial. The first, and most elementary, is to check that your particular router has DD-WRT support. You can visit the DD-WRT wiki’s Router Database here to check.
Once you’ve established that your router is compatible with DD-WRT, we need to check the revision number of your router’s chip. If you have a really old Linksys router, for example, it might be a perfectible serviceable router in every way but the chip may not support dual SSIDs (which makes it fundamentally incompatible with the tutorial).
There are two degrees of compatibility in regard to the router’s revision number. Some routers can do multiple SSIDs but they cannot split the SSIDs into distinct absolutely unique access points (e.g. a unique MAC address for each SSID). In some situations this can cause problems with some Wi-Fi devices as they get confused as to which SSID (since both of them have the same MAC address) they should use. Unfortunately there is no way to predict which devices will misbehave on your network so we can’t flat out recommend that you avoid the technique outlined in this tutorial if you find you have a device that does not support discrete SSIDs.
You can check the revision number by performing a Google search for the specific model of your router along with the version number printed on the information label (usually found on the underside of the router) but we’ve found this technique to be unreliable (labels can be misapplied, information posted online regarding the model and date of manufacture can be inaccurate, etc.)
The most reliable way to check the revision number of the chip inside your router is to actually poll the router to find out. In order to do so you need to perform the following steps. Open up a telnet client (either a multi-purpose program like PuTTY or the basic Windows Telnet command) and telnet to the IP address of your router (e.g. 192.168.1.1). Login to the router using your administrator login and password (be aware that for some routers even if you type in “admin” and “mypassword” to login to the web-based management portal on the router, you may have to type in “root” and “mypassword” to login via telnet).
Once you are logged into the router, type the following command at the prompt:
nvram show|grep corerev
This will return the core revision number of the chip(s) in your router in the following format:
wl0_corerev=9
wl_corerev=
What the above output means is that our router has one radio (wl0, there is no wl1) and that the core revision of that radio chip is 9. How do you interpret the output? The revision number, in relationship to our guide, means the following:
  • 0-4 The router does not support multiple SSIDs (with unique identifiers or otherwise)
  • 5-8 The router supports multiple SSIDs (but not with unique identifiers)
  • 9+  The router supports multiple SSIDs (with unique identifiers)
As you can see from our command output above, we lucked out. Our router’s chip is the lowest revision that supports multiple SSIDs with unique identifiers.
Once you’ve determined that your router can support multiple SSIDs you’ll need to install DD-WRT. If your router shipped with DD-WRT or you already installed it, fantastic. If you haven’t already installed it we recommend downloading the appropriate version from the DD-WRT web site and following along with our tutorial: Turn Your Home Router Into a Super-Powered Router with DD-WRT.
In addition to our tutorial, we cannot stress the value of the extensive and excellently maintained DD-WRT wiki. Read up on your particular router and the best practices for flashing a new firmware to it there.

Configuring DD-WRT for Multiple SSIDs

You have a compatible router, you’ve flashed DD-WRT to it, now it’s time to get started setting up that second SSID. Just like you should always flash new firmware over a wired connection, we strongly recommend working on your wireless setup over a wired connect so the changes don’t force your wireless computer off the network.
Open up your web browser on a computer connected to the router via Ethernet. Navigate to the default router IP (typically 198.168.1.1). Within the DD-WRT interface, navigate to Wireless -> Basic Settings (as seen in the screenshot above). You can see that our existing Wi-Fi AP has the SSID “HTG_Office”.
At the bottom of the page, in the “Virtual Interfaces” section, click on the Add button. The previously empty “Virtual Interfaces” section will expand with this prepopulated entry: 
This virtual interface is piggybacked onto your existing radio chip (note the wl0.1 in the title of the new entry). Even the shorthand in the SSID indicated this, the “vap” at the end of the default SSID stands for Virtual Access Point. Let’s break down the rest of the entries under the new Virtual Interface.
You can rename the SSID to whatever you want. In keeping with our existing naming convention (and to make life easy on our guests) we’re going to change the SSID from the default to “HTG_Guest”–remember our main Wi-Fi AP is “HTG_Office”.
Leave Wireless SSID Broadcast enabled. Not only do many older computers and Wi-Fi enabled devices not play very nice with secret SSIDs but a hidden guest network isn’t a very inviting/useful guest network.
AP Isolation is a security setting that we’ll leave at your discretion to enable or disable. If you enable AP Isolation every client on your guest Wi-Fi network will be totally isolated from each other. From a security standpoint this is great, as it keeps a malicious user from poking around on the clients of other users. That’s more of a concern for corporate networks and public hotspots, however. Practically speaking, that also means if your niece and nephew are over and they want to play a Wi-Fi linked game on their Nintendo DS units, their DS units won’t be able to see each other. In most home and small office applications there is little reason to isolate the APs.
The Unbridged/Bridged option in Network Configuration refers to whether or not the Wi-Fi AP will be bridged or not to the physical network. As counterintuitive as this is, you need to leave it set to Bridged. Rather than let the router firmware handle (rather clumsily) the unlinking process, we’re going to manually unbridge everything ourselves with a cleaner and more stable outcome.
Once you’ve changes your SSID and reviewed the settings, click Save.
Next navigate over to Wireless -> Wireless Security:
By default there is no security on the second AP. You can leave it as such temporarily for testing purposes (we left ours open until the very end) to save yourself from keying in the password on your test devices. We don’t, however, recommend leaving it permanently open. Whether you opt to leave it open or not at this point, you need to click Save and then Apply Settings for the changes we made both in the previous section and this one to take effect. Be patient, it can take up to a 2 minutes for changes to take effect.
Now is a great time to confirm that nearby Wi-Fi devices can see both the primary and secondary APs. Opening the Wi-Fi interface on a smartphone is a great way to quickly check. Here’s the view from our Android phone’s Wi-Fi config page:
We can’t connect to the secondary AP just yet as we need to make a few more changes to the router, but it’s always nice to see them both in the list.
The next step is to begin the process of separating the SSIDs on the network by assigning a unique range of IP addresses to the guest Wi-Fi devices.
Navigate to Setup -> Networking. Under the “Bridging” section, click the Add button.
First, change the initial slot to “br1″, leave the rest of the values the same. You won’t be able to see the IP/Subnet entry seen above just yet. Click “Apply Settings”. The new bridge will be in the Bridging section with the IP and Subnet sections available. Set the IP address to one value off your regular network’s IP (e.g. your primary network is 192.168.1.1, so make this value 192.168.2.1). Set the Subnet Mask to 255.255.255.0. Click “Apply Settings” at the bottom of the page again.
After the changes are applied, scroll to the bottom of the page once more to the DHCPD section. Click “Add”. Switch the first slot to “br1″. Leave the rest of the settings the same (as seen in the screenshot below).
Click “Apply Settings” one more time. Once you’ve finished all the tasks in the Setup -> Networking page you should be good to go for connectivity and DHCP assignment.
Note: If the Wi-Fi AP you’re configuring for dual SSIDs is piggy backing on another device (e.g. you have two Wi-Fi routers in your home or office to extend your coverage and the one you’re setting the guest SSID up on is #2 in the chain) you’ll need to set up the DHCP in the Services section. If this sounds like your setup it’s time to navigate to the Services -> Services section.
In the services section we need to add a little bit of code to the DNSMasq section so that the router will properly assigned dynamic IP addresses to the devices connecting to the guest network. Scroll down the DNSMasq section. In the “Additional DNSMasq Options” box, paste the following code (minus the # comments explaining the functionality of each line):
# Enables DHCP on br1
interface=br1
# Set the default gateway for br1 clients
dhcp-option=br1,3,192.168.2.1
# Set the DHCP range and default lease time of 24 hours for br1 clients
dhcp-range=br1,192.168.2.100,192.168.2.150,255.255.255.0,24h
Click “Apply Settings” at the bottom of the page.
Whether you used technique one or two,  wait a few minutes to connect to your new guest SSID. When you connect to the guest SSID, check your IP address. You should have an IP within the range we specified with the above. Again, it’s handy to use your smartphone to check:
Everything looks good. The secondary AP is assigning dynamic IPs in an appropriate range, we can get on the Internet–we’re making a note here, huge success.
The only problem, however, is that the secondary AP still has access to the resources of the primary network. This means all networked printers, network shares, and such are still visible (you can test it now, try to find a network share from your primary network on the secondary AP).
If you want guests on the secondary AP to have access to these things (and are following along with the tutorial so you can do other dual-SSID tasks like restrict guest bandwidth or times they are allowed to use the Internet) then you’re effectively done with the tutorial.
We imagine that most of you would like to keep your guests from poking around your network and gently herd them towards sticking to Facebook and email. In that case we need to finish the process by unlinking the secondary AP from the physical network.
Navigate to Administration -> Commands. You’ll see an area labeled “Command Shell”. Paste the following commands, sans the # comment lines, into the editable area:
#Removes guest access to physical network
iptables -I FORWARD -i br1 -o br0 -m state --state NEW -j DROP
iptables -I FORWARD -i br0 -o br1 -m state --state NEW -j DROP
#Removes guest access to the router's config GUI/ports
iptables -I INPUT -i br1 -p tcp --dport telnet -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset
iptables -I INPUT -i br1 -p tcp --dport ssh -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset
iptables -I INPUT -i br1 -p tcp --dport www -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset
iptables -I INPUT -i br1 -p tcp --dport https -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset
Click “Save Firewall” and reboot your router.
These additional firewall rules simple stop everything on on the two bridges (the private network and the public/guest network) from talking as well as reject any contact between a client on the guest network and the telnet, SSH, or web server ports on the router (thus restricting them from attempting to access the router’s configuration files at all).
A word on using the command shell and the startup, shutdown, and firewall scripts. First, the IPTABLES commands are processed in order. Changing the order of the individuals lines can significantly change the outcome. Second, there are dozens upon dozens of routers supported by DD-WRT and depending on your specific router and and configuration you may need to tweak the IPTABLES commands above. The script worked for our router and it uses the broadest and simplest possible commands to accomplish the task so it should work for most routers. If it doesn’t, we’d strongly urge you to search for your specific router model inthe DD-WRT discussion forums and see if other users have experienced the same issues you have.

At this point you’re done with the configuration and ready to enjoy dual SSIDs and all the benefits that come with running them. You can easily give out a guest password (and change it at will), set up QoS rules for the guest network, and otherwise modify and restrict the guest network in ways that won’t affect your primary network in the least.

Posted By Unknown11:59

How to Select a Battery Backup for Your Computer

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A cheap power strip might protect equipment from power surges, but it does nothing to help when the power goes out and your system comes to a halting crash. Read on as we show you how to buy the right battery backup device for your needs.

Why Do I Want to Do This?

Sudden loss of power and power surges are  two of the principle causes of damage to computers and other sensitive electronics. Even cheap power strips will do a decent enough job protecting against the power surges, but they offer no protection against drops in line voltage, brownouts, blackouts and other power supply issues.
In order to protect your computer against power supply interruptions you need a battery backup, appropriately named an Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS). UPS units provide a buffer against power supply interruptions ranging from a few minutes to an hour or more depending on the size of the unit.
A simple way to think about the utility of a UPS unit is to think about working on a notebook computer. You’re at home, your laptop is plugged into an appropriate surge protection strip, and you’re busily finishing up some reports for work. A summer storm knocks the power out. Although the lights go out, your work on the notebook computer is uninterrupted because the notebook switched over to battery power seamlessly when the flow of electricity from the power cord vanished. You now have plenty of time to save your work and gracefully shut down your machine.
If you had been working on a desktop without a UPS unit (the desktop computer equivalent of the notebook computer’s battery) the system would come to an immediate halt. Not only would you lose your work but the process imposes unnecessary stress on your machine. In all our years of working with computers the vast majority of hardware failures can be directly attributed to the stress hardware components experience during the shut down and startup process (especially if power surges or blackouts are involved).
A UPS unit would, at minimum even with a very small unit, provide a window of time where your computer could be gracefully shut down or sent into hibernation mode and brought back online once the power outage or other power situation was resolved. If the situation is resolved while the UPS unit still has enough battery life remaining, then you can work right through the storm without interruption. Even if you’re not in direct attendance of the computer (say the computer in question is your backup server in the basement) you’re still protected as the UPS will communicate with the computer via tether and shut the machine down properly in your absence.
In both situations, a graceful shutdown or the ability to work through short interruptions in power, are vastly superior to your system being brought to a system shocking hard stop when the power goes out.
Read on as we guide you through identifying your UPS needs, calculating your UPS power requirements, and understanding the features and design types of various UPS units.

Where Do I Need UPS Units?

The UPS market is a very diverse one; you can find UPS units that range from tiny desktop units that supply enough power to keep a lightweight desktop computer running for 10 minutes without wall-supplied power to a walk-in-freezer sized units deployed in data centers to keep an entire bank of servers running through a storm.
As such it’s possible to spend anywhere from a hundred bucks on a low-end UPS unit to more than you spent on the computer itself for the UPS unit. The most important step in your UPS selection and shopping process is to sit down and chart out your power needs before spending your hard earned cash on gear that is overkill (or worse, underpowered) for your situation.
First, think about all the systems in your home or office that need the extended power protection supplied by a UPS unit, to stay online in the event of power outages, or both. Every reader will have a different setup, for the sake of example we’re going to use our home as a template to help you think about all the varied power needs found in a typical residential setting.
The most obvious system would be your desktop computer. In our case we have two desktop computers in our home–one in a home office and one in a child’s playroom.
Less obvious, but still important, are any secondary computer systems such as a home media server or network attached storage device used for local backup. In our case we have a media server/backup server in the basement.
In addition to the primary computers and auxiliary computers are there other electronic devices that you want to protect from power outages and keep online? In our case in addition to the aforementioned computers we also have a cable modem, router, and Wi-Fi node that we would like to protect from power loss. There isn’t a “graceful shutdown” equivalent for the cable modem, for example, but our particular cable modem is finicky and requires a manual reset after a power outage. Attaching it to a nearby UPS unit would add very little overhead to our UPS needs but would make sure those little micro power outages that occur during high winds and summer storms won’t send up scurrying to the data closet to reset the darn thing.

How Big of a UPS Unit Do I Need?

At the bare minimum you need enough juice in your UPS unit to give your computer system adequate time to shut down properly. That’s the absolute acceptable minimum. If your UPS unit doesn’t have enough juice to provide for the system from the moment the power cuts out until the moment it has successfully shut down, you’re risking damage to the machine and data loss.
How do we calculate the power needs of the system? The first step is examining the core system and peripherals you wish to keep on in the event of power loss.  In the case of our home server, we don’t need to calculate the peripheral load because there are no peripherals (it’s a headless server with no power needs beyond that of the hardware directly in the tower). On the other hand, our two computers (in the home office and the playroom) do have peripherals like monitors, external hard drives, etc. In the case of a power outage where you’re working at the computer, it’s worthwhile to have the battery also supply the monitor so you can interact with the machine. Don’t neglect to include the power load of peripherals when calculating your needs.
Let’s start off by determining the power needs of our home server as it is the most simple of our setups. If you want to be extremely precise with your calculations, you can use a power meter to measure the actual consumption patterns of your devices. We outline how to do so in The How-To Geek Guide to Measuring Your Energy Use.
Alternatively, you can look at the power supply rating for your computer as a measure of the maximum power the computer will pull. It’s important to note, however, that a 400w power supply is not pulling a constant load of 400w. Our home server has a 400w power supply but when measured with a Kill-a-Watt measuring tool it has a peak startup load of a little over 300w and a consistent operating load of only around 250w.
If you’re looking to be very conservative in your power estimation needs, go with the maximum rating of the PSU and peripherals (this way you’ll end up with extra battery life instead of too little battery life). Alternatively, you can increase the precision of your calculations by using a measuring device and allocate more of your budget towards UPS unit features you want and less towards buying a bigger battery.
Regardless of whether you use the less precise or more precise method, you now have a wattage value. For our calculation examples we’re going to use 400w as our value.
A simple rule-of-thumb calculation you can use to determine how much UPS is as follows:
1.6 * Wattage Load = Minimum Volt-Amperes (VA)
Volt-Amperes are the standard measurement used to describe the capacity of UPS units. Using the equation above we see that the minimum VA rating we’d want for our 400w needs would be a 640 VA rated system.
Now that we have a minimum rating, the next question on everyone’s mind is most likely: How long will that minimum system run the setup? After all you’re getting a battery backup system for your computer to keep everything running when the power is out.
Unfortunately there isn’t a super quick rule-of-thumb calculation for determining the runtime like there is for determining the necessary minimum VA. We’ll show you how to do the calculation so that you can double check manufacturer estimates if you wish, but it’s not a particular speedy or fun calculation to run through.
In order to calculate the estimate runtime of a UPS system you need to know four things: the VA rating of the UPS unit, the number of battery cells in the UPS unit, the DV voltage rating of those batteries, the capacity (or Ampere-Hours) of the batteries. Unfortunately not all of this information is easily cribbed off of a simple web site listing for the product you’re interested in running the calculation on so you’ll likely need to dig through a PDF of the manual, supplemental documents, and so on to get it all. In other words, it’s a huge pain.
Once you have all the requisite information, however, you can plug it into the following equation:
( Battery Voltage * AH Rating * Efficiency) / VA Rating =  X
X * 60 = Estimated Run Time in Minutes
So let’s pretend we’re looking at a theoretical UPS unit that has the following specs:
VA Rating: 700
Battery Voltage: 12
AH: 9
Efficiency: 0.9 (90%)
When we plug those numbers into the equation we get the following:
( 12 * 9 * 0.9 ) / 700 = 0.139
0.139 * 60 = 8.3 minutes
So this particular UPS unit could sustain the system under full load for a little over 8 minutes (longer if the system is under partial load).
We shared this exercise with you so that you can do the calculations if you wish but it’s not something we particularly recommend. It’s such an enormous hassle to dig up all the information (especially the efficiency rating); it’s much more expedient to use manufacturer estimate tables (which we’ve found to be on the conservative side anyways). You can check out the calculation/selection tools of the more popular UPS unit manufacturers here:
Practically speaking, once you’ve established the minimum VA requirement for your setup then you can go and begin comparing the run times for UPS units that meet that minimum VA requirement with higher rated systems to determine how much more you’re willing to spend to get extra run time.

Understanding the Differences Between UPS Types

So far we’ve identified where we need UPS units and how to calculate how big of a UPS unit we need. In addition to those two factors, it’s important to understand how the major UPS technologies on the market differ from each other and why two 1000 VA rated units might have a price difference of $100 or more (and what you get for that extra $$$).
There are three principle UPS design types available. The least expensive design is known as Offline/Standby UPS. If the UPS unit you’re looking at makes no mention of what type of unit it is, then it’s most likely a Standby UPS the most basic design.
Standby UPS unit charges its battery and then waits for the mains power to drop off. When that happens, the Standby UPS mechanically switches to the battery backup. This switch over takes about 20-100 milliseconds which is generally well with in the tolerance threshold of most electronics.
Line-Interactive UPS unit has a similar design to a Standby UPS unit but includes a special transformer. This special transformer makes Line-Interactive UPS units better at handling brown outs and power sags. If you live in area that has frequent brownouts or line-voltage issues (e.g. the lights frequently dim but you don’t actually lose power) it’s definitely worth the small increase in cost to purchase a Line-Interactive UPS.
An Online UPS unit is the most expensive type of UPS unit as it requires significant extra circuitry. The Online UPS unit completely isolates the devices attached to it from the wall power. Instead of jumping into action at the first sign of power out or voltage regulation issues like the Standby and Line-Interactive units, the Online UPS unit continuously filters the wall power through the battery system. Because the attached electronics run completely off the battery bank (which is being perpetually topped off by the external power supply) there is never a single millisecond of power interruption when there is power loss or voltage regulation issues. The Online UPS unit then, is effectively an electronic firewall between your devices and the outside world, scrubbing and stabilizing all the electricity your devices are ever exposed to. Expect to pay a 200-400% premium for an Online UPS unit over a similarly spec’ed Line-Interactive Unit.

Comparing Secondary Features

Even though a UPS unit is effectively just a sophisticated battery, there are tons of little features that can greatly enhance your UPS experience. Now that we know how to size and compare the basic elements of the UPS let’s take a look at additional features you’ll want to consider when picking out a UPS unit.
Supplementary software/OS compatibility: UPS units aren’t just power strips with big old batteries attached. Any UPS unit worth the $$$ you paid for it will include some method for interfacing the unit with the computer it is attached to. For most units this is a simple USB cable run between the UPS and the computer so that when the unit switches over to battery power it can alert the attached computer and, when the battery reserve grows too low, initiate the shut down process.
When shopping for your UPS unit, make sure that the unit you’re looking at can 1) communicate with attached devices and 2) communicate specifically with your chosen operating system. If you’re on Windows this won’t be much concern but if you’re using OSX or Linux you don’t want to find out post-purchase that all the cool software bells and whistles you saw in the ad copy for the UPS unit aren’t available on your OS.
For an example of how the UPS software interacts with the operating system, check out our tutorial on setting up APC’s PowerChute software.
Number of outlets: UPS units generally have a mix of on-battery and off-battery (but still surge protected) outlets. Make sure that there are adequate outlets for your needs. Some brands include additional outlet-related features such as peripheral outlets that automatically put peripherals to sleep to save energy.
Cable filters: If you know the unit will be used for your cable modem and router, for example, you’ll want to double check the specs to ensure that the UPS unit includes surge protected/filtered ports for your Ethernet and Coax cables.
Displays: Not all UPS units have displays (and you may not care if yours does) but they can be quite useful. Older units and newer low-end units do not include displays. As such you’re limited in receiving feedback from the unit either via communication over the USB/serial cable or (more annoyingly) as beeps from the unit. A compact display screen that can tell you additional information like remaining run time, battery health, and other tidbits is very handy.
Noise/Fans: Small UPS units generally do not have fans. Larger units often do and it’s worth reading reviews and digging around online to see if the fans are as quiet as the manufacturer claims. While fan noise isn’t an issue if you’re adding a UPS unit to a home server kept in the basement, it’s a real big deal if you’re adding a UPS unit to your home theater setup.
User-replaceable batteries: Does the unit have user-replaceable batteries and how much do they cost? UPS batteries don’t last forever (3-5 years is a pretty typical lifecycle for a UPS battery). When the battery finally fails, and it will, you’ll either need to buy new batteries (if you can swap them yourself) or buy a whole new unit. Except for very low-end UPS units where the replacement battery is often times almost as much as a brand new UPS unit, you should always look for units with user-replicable batteries. There’s no reason at all to scrap a $100+ unit for inability to swap out the simple 12V batteries inside.

Armed with the above information you’re now ready to shop for a UPS unit perfectly suited for your needs, big or small.
Have a tip, trick, or bit of related knowledge to share about UPS units? Join in the conversation below to help your fellow readers.

Posted By Unknown11:55
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